All of us here at Steed would just like to wish all of our American customers and their families a very Happy Thanksgiving!
An Insight Into The World Of Savile Row Tailoring and various sartorial subjects, by Steed Bespoke Tailors, Savile Row, London.
Thursday, 24 November 2011
Wednesday, 16 November 2011
A Work in Progress...Part 3..Ready For Finishing
Just a further update on this JJ Minnis 7704 sports jacket, which is now ready for finishing.
What happens to your jacket when it goes to the finisher??
The edges of the jacket will all be stitched by hand and in this case with it being a tweed, we will use what is called a "swelled edge". Whereby it will be sewn approx 3/8" (1cm) in from the edge, unlike most suit jackets and blazers, which would be sewn virtually on the edge. In both cases the purpose of this stitch is to stop the edges rolling. The "swelled edge" is mainly a distinguishing feature of tweed jackets, due to the thickness of the cloth but could be utilised as a style feature if required.
Along with the edge stitching, the buttonholes, felling of the lining and the undercollar will all be done by hand to prepare the jacket for pressing and buttoning, before delivery to the customer.
Whilst making the jacket, the tailor should use a process called under pressing, which basically means pressing the job ( jacket) as you go, this will help and make the final press a lot easier.
Please note that Dad (Edwin DeBoise) is modelling the jacket for the purpose of the article.
What happens to your jacket when it goes to the finisher??
The edges of the jacket will all be stitched by hand and in this case with it being a tweed, we will use what is called a "swelled edge". Whereby it will be sewn approx 3/8" (1cm) in from the edge, unlike most suit jackets and blazers, which would be sewn virtually on the edge. In both cases the purpose of this stitch is to stop the edges rolling. The "swelled edge" is mainly a distinguishing feature of tweed jackets, due to the thickness of the cloth but could be utilised as a style feature if required.
Along with the edge stitching, the buttonholes, felling of the lining and the undercollar will all be done by hand to prepare the jacket for pressing and buttoning, before delivery to the customer.
Whilst making the jacket, the tailor should use a process called under pressing, which basically means pressing the job ( jacket) as you go, this will help and make the final press a lot easier.
Please note that Dad (Edwin DeBoise) is modelling the jacket for the purpose of the article.
Friday, 11 November 2011
Monday, 7 November 2011
Things You Do For Airmiles...NYC December Trip!
It is looking more likely now that my next trip to the States will be in March of 2012 rather than the usual January trip.
However I will be making a short trip "across the pond" for a long weekend in New York City in December. Partly due to being a few miles short of keeping my Platinum Status and also with the countless trips over the years to the States, I have never had the pleasure of seeing New York in the Holiday season.
With this, I thought I would take the opportunity to mix a bit of business with pleasure and will be free to meet with customers over the weekend.
Anybody that has had patterns and would like a fitting, please could you let me know as soon as possible, so that I can arrange to have a fitting brought out.
I will be staying at:
The Roger Smith Hotel
501 Lexington Ave (Between 48th & 47th)
New York
NY 10017
Tel: 212 755 1400
I will be available from Friday, 16th December & Saturday, 17th December.
It might be easier to contact me using my American cell whilst I am out there:
617 794 0039
However I will be making a short trip "across the pond" for a long weekend in New York City in December. Partly due to being a few miles short of keeping my Platinum Status and also with the countless trips over the years to the States, I have never had the pleasure of seeing New York in the Holiday season.
With this, I thought I would take the opportunity to mix a bit of business with pleasure and will be free to meet with customers over the weekend.
Anybody that has had patterns and would like a fitting, please could you let me know as soon as possible, so that I can arrange to have a fitting brought out.
I will be staying at:
The Roger Smith Hotel
501 Lexington Ave (Between 48th & 47th)
New York
NY 10017
Tel: 212 755 1400
I will be available from Friday, 16th December & Saturday, 17th December.
It might be easier to contact me using my American cell whilst I am out there:
617 794 0039
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