The first fitting is of the London Lounge LLTW20. This is for a gentleman that Dad saw in Washington DC.
It is a first fitting (basted) and therefore don't be alarmed at how square the fronts are at the bottom of the jacket, these will be rounded off when the coat is finished. Also the fronts are looking slightly more open then they will be, as the edge of the cloth is turned in for the basted fitting.
The only alteration that we need to do is to slightly shorten the sleeves. The left sleeve just 3/8" and the right sleeve will be shortened a 1/4".
One thing to remember regarding sleeve lengths on jackets is that it is a very personal thing and it is purely a matter of taste to each individual. However, personally I think you need at least 3/8" if not 1/2" of shirt cuff to show, to finish the look off.
The second fitting is for Voxsartoria (those of you will know him from the different fashion forums & also from his new website.)
This cloth is the 13oz brown triple check, JJ Minnis 7704
As with most of our fittings we don't have many problems at all, apart from just lengthening the right sleeve 1/4" and a tad on the left.
From here Dad gives me the fittings to "rip down". This basically means, having to take out the sleeve, shoulders and part of the collar. As you can see from the photo's.
Carefully taking the sleeves out with a sharp blade.
Pressing the job flat to make it easier for Dad to "mark up".
Does it have an out-breast pocket or not??
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Trimming the inlay on the shoulders, which is left on for the fitting, in case of the need for extra "back balance".
Ready for the tailor to complete and to prepare it for the "Finisher" Who will put in the hand button holes as well as the edge stitching, along with other various finishing stitches, needed to complete the jacket.
In part 3 we will showcase the two coats that are ready for the finisher, then when the finishing has been done & the final button and press.
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The minnis jacket is shaping up really great. I really like the LL shetland as well, will the sleeves of the LL jacket be improved? There is some bunching in the backshot, not sure if it is because of the sleeve pitch.
ReplyDeleteThank you and it does look great in the flesh.
ReplyDeleteIt's slightly pitch and also the size of the sleeve which has to be adjusted to fit in to the armhole.
One thing you also have to remember is that when standing in front of a camera or mirror, men especially stand to attention & throw their arms back.
Edwin DeBoise
I love it. I always want to make a jacket but even if try to make one the output is always a junk. Maybe I'll just make a jacket out of paper. :D
ReplyDelete