A Work in Progress...Part 4...Button, Pressed and Ready To Send

This is the final part of the series.."A Work In Progress", of which we have followed through the making of two bespoke sports jackets/coats.

The first jacket is the exclusive LLTW20 from The London Lounge Cloth Club. Which is a Blue Shetland Tweed with a brown window pane.

The second jacket is the JJ Minnis 7704.

As you can see from the pictures, the jackets are back from the hand finisher (see part 3) and are now ready for the final press and buttoning which was done by Andrea, and then prepared to be shipped off Stateside.

Also, just a note to mention that the jackets are modelled by Dad and myself for the purpose of this article.

Andrea pressing the coat before buttoning.

Sewing the buttons on.

Making the flower loop behind the lapel.

Ready for shipping.

If The Shoe Fits...

I was just having a bit of fun one afternoon with Matthew & Andrea, explaining how I could draft a jacket pattern for Matthew just by using his shoe as the only guide. Needless to say they asked me to prove it.......

Unfortunately we have had to cut the video into two parts around 8 minutes in length as this was just done off the cuff on Matthew's iPhone.  

The first video is just an introduction with a brief explanation as to what is happening....Enjoy...                                                                             

These videos have also been posted on to our new YouTube channel that Matthew has created called Steed's View Channel..We will post any videos that we make in the future here as well.

Happy Thanksgiving!

All of us here at Steed would just like to wish all of our American customers and their families a very Happy Thanksgiving!

A Work in Progress...Part 3..Ready For Finishing

Just a further update on this JJ Minnis 7704 sports jacket, which is now ready for finishing.

What happens to your jacket when it goes to the finisher??

The edges of the jacket will all be stitched by hand and in this case with it being a tweed, we will use what is called a "swelled edge". Whereby it will be sewn approx 3/8" (1cm) in from the edge, unlike most suit jackets and blazers, which would be sewn virtually on the edge. In both cases the purpose of this stitch is to stop the edges rolling. The "swelled edge" is mainly a distinguishing feature of tweed jackets, due to the thickness of the cloth but could be utilised as a style feature if required.


Along with the edge stitching, the buttonholes, felling of the lining and the undercollar will all be done by hand to prepare the jacket for pressing and buttoning, before delivery to the customer.






Whilst making the jacket, the tailor should use a process called under pressing, which basically means pressing the job ( jacket) as you go, this will help and make the final press a lot easier.

Please note that Dad (Edwin DeBoise) is modelling the jacket for the purpose of the article. 

 

11/11/11 We Remember