Thursday, 27 October 2011

A Work in Progress...Part 2

Now Dad's back from the States, it's time for part 2 of the series...A Work in Progress.

The first fitting is of the London Lounge LLTW20. This is for a gentleman that Dad saw in Washington DC.

It is a first fitting (basted) and therefore don't be alarmed at how square the fronts are at the bottom of the jacket, these will be rounded off when the coat is finished. Also the fronts are looking slightly more open then they will be, as the edge of the cloth is turned in for the basted fitting.

The only alteration that we need to do is to slightly shorten the sleeves. The left sleeve just 3/8" and the right sleeve will be shortened a 1/4".

One thing to remember regarding sleeve lengths on jackets is that it is a very personal thing and it is purely a matter of taste to each individual. However,  personally I think you need at least 3/8" if not 1/2" of shirt cuff to show, to finish the look off.

The second fitting is for Voxsartoria (those of you will know him from the different fashion forums & also from his new website.)

This cloth is the 13oz brown triple check, JJ Minnis 7704

As with most of our fittings we don't have many problems at all, apart from just lengthening the right sleeve 1/4" and a tad on the left.

From here Dad gives me the fittings to "rip down". This basically means, having to take out the sleeve, shoulders and part of the collar. As you can see from the photo's.

Carefully taking the sleeves out with a sharp blade.

Pressing the job flat to make it easier for Dad to "mark up".

Does it have an out-breast pocket or not??

Trimming the inlay on the shoulders, which is left on for the fitting, in case of the need for extra "back balance".

Ready for the tailor to complete and to prepare it for the "Finisher" Who will put in the hand button holes as well as the edge stitching, along with other various finishing stitches, needed to complete the jacket.

In part 3 we will showcase the two coats that are ready for the finisher, then when the finishing has been done & the final button and press.

Thursday, 13 October 2011

A Work in Progress...Part 1

Over the next few weeks, we are going to follow through the production from start to finish of a couple of interesting cloths, of which Steed are making for two separate customers in The United States.

Both of these jackets are to be fitted on the current USA October trip and upon Edwin's return from the trip we will post part 2 of the "A work in progress" and show you the photo's from the fittings.

The first cloth is an exclusive London Lounge cloth called LLTW20 which is a beautiful blue Shetland tweed with a brown window pane, designed by Michael Alden, the creator of The London Lounge.

The style of this sports jacket is:

Single Breasted
3 roll 2 1/2
Side Vents
Notch Lapel
2 Front Cuts

The second cloth is a 13oz brown triple check from J&J Minnis. The pattern number is 7704

The style of this sports jacket is pretty much the same as the London Lounge jacket but here are the details below:

Single Breasted
3 roll 2
Side Vents
Notch Lapel
2 Front Cuts

As mentioned before we will be sure to put up the fitting photo's in a couple of weeks and will follow on with the rest of the process on these two, as well as looking at some other Steed creations throughout 2012.


Matthew DeBoise

Steed Bespoke Tailors

Monday, 3 October 2011

Get Well Soon!

It's with regret to announce that my brother Jon DeBoise of Castle Tailors will be unable to travel to the USA as expected due to illness. However he is on the mend and we all wish him a speedy recovery.

For those of you who were hoping to see him on this trip, most of whom I know already, I will be more than happy to meet with you and to take orders on his behalf. 

Also those who have fittings ready I shall also take care of those appointments for Jon, apart from in Nashville where Roger Talbot of Hilditch & Key will be able to accommodate you.