A Work in Progress...Part 4...Button, Pressed and Ready To Send

This is the final part of the series.."A Work In Progress", of which we have followed through the making of two bespoke sports jackets/coats.

The first jacket is the exclusive LLTW20 from The London Lounge Cloth Club. Which is a Blue Shetland Tweed with a brown window pane.

The second jacket is the JJ Minnis 7704.

As you can see from the pictures, the jackets are back from the hand finisher (see part 3) and are now ready for the final press and buttoning which was done by Andrea, and then prepared to be shipped off Stateside.

Also, just a note to mention that the jackets are modelled by Dad and myself for the purpose of this article.

Andrea pressing the coat before buttoning.

Sewing the buttons on.

Making the flower loop behind the lapel.

Ready for shipping.

If The Shoe Fits...

I was just having a bit of fun one afternoon with Matthew & Andrea, explaining how I could draft a jacket pattern for Matthew just by using his shoe as the only guide. Needless to say they asked me to prove it.......

Unfortunately we have had to cut the video into two parts around 8 minutes in length as this was just done off the cuff on Matthew's iPhone.  

The first video is just an introduction with a brief explanation as to what is happening....Enjoy...                                                                             

These videos have also been posted on to our new YouTube channel that Matthew has created called Steed's View Channel..We will post any videos that we make in the future here as well.

Happy Thanksgiving!

All of us here at Steed would just like to wish all of our American customers and their families a very Happy Thanksgiving!

A Work in Progress...Part 3..Ready For Finishing

Just a further update on this JJ Minnis 7704 sports jacket, which is now ready for finishing.

What happens to your jacket when it goes to the finisher??

The edges of the jacket will all be stitched by hand and in this case with it being a tweed, we will use what is called a "swelled edge". Whereby it will be sewn approx 3/8" (1cm) in from the edge, unlike most suit jackets and blazers, which would be sewn virtually on the edge. In both cases the purpose of this stitch is to stop the edges rolling. The "swelled edge" is mainly a distinguishing feature of tweed jackets, due to the thickness of the cloth but could be utilised as a style feature if required.


Along with the edge stitching, the buttonholes, felling of the lining and the undercollar will all be done by hand to prepare the jacket for pressing and buttoning, before delivery to the customer.






Whilst making the jacket, the tailor should use a process called under pressing, which basically means pressing the job ( jacket) as you go, this will help and make the final press a lot easier.

Please note that Dad (Edwin DeBoise) is modelling the jacket for the purpose of the article. 

 

11/11/11 We Remember

Things You Do For Airmiles...NYC December Trip!

It is looking more likely now that my next trip to the States will be in March of 2012 rather than the usual January trip.

 However I will be making a short trip "across the pond" for a long weekend in New York City in December. Partly due to being a few miles short of keeping my Platinum Status and also with the countless trips over the years to the States, I have never had the pleasure of seeing New York in the Holiday season.

With this, I thought I would take the opportunity to mix a bit of business with pleasure and will be free to meet with customers over the weekend.

Anybody that has had patterns and would like a fitting, please could you let me know as soon as possible, so that I can arrange to have a fitting brought out.

I will be staying at:

The Roger Smith Hotel
501 Lexington Ave  (Between 48th & 47th)
New York
NY 10017

Tel: 212 755 1400

I will be available from Friday, 16th December & Saturday, 17th December.

It might be easier to contact me using my American cell whilst I am out there:

617 794 0039

A Work in Progress...Part 2

Now Dad's back from the States, it's time for part 2 of the series...A Work in Progress.

The first fitting is of the London Lounge LLTW20. This is for a gentleman that Dad saw in Washington DC.

It is a first fitting (basted) and therefore don't be alarmed at how square the fronts are at the bottom of the jacket, these will be rounded off when the coat is finished. Also the fronts are looking slightly more open then they will be, as the edge of the cloth is turned in for the basted fitting.

The only alteration that we need to do is to slightly shorten the sleeves. The left sleeve just 3/8" and the right sleeve will be shortened a 1/4".

One thing to remember regarding sleeve lengths on jackets is that it is a very personal thing and it is purely a matter of taste to each individual. However,  personally I think you need at least 3/8" if not 1/2" of shirt cuff to show, to finish the look off.




















The second fitting is for Voxsartoria (those of you will know him from the different fashion forums & also from his new website.)

This cloth is the 13oz brown triple check, JJ Minnis 7704

As with most of our fittings we don't have many problems at all, apart from just lengthening the right sleeve 1/4" and a tad on the left.

From here Dad gives me the fittings to "rip down". This basically means, having to take out the sleeve, shoulders and part of the collar. As you can see from the photo's.

Carefully taking the sleeves out with a sharp blade.










Pressing the job flat to make it easier for Dad to "mark up".

Does it have an out-breast pocket or not??

Trimming the inlay on the shoulders, which is left on for the fitting, in case of the need for extra "back balance".

                                     
                                                                             











Ready for the tailor to complete and to prepare it for the "Finisher" Who will put in the hand button holes as well as the edge stitching, along with other various finishing stitches, needed to complete the jacket.






In part 3 we will showcase the two coats that are ready for the finisher, then when the finishing has been done & the final button and press.
..

A Work in Progress...Part 1

Over the next few weeks, we are going to follow through the production from start to finish of a couple of interesting cloths, of which Steed are making for two separate customers in The United States.

Both of these jackets are to be fitted on the current USA October trip and upon Edwin's return from the trip we will post part 2 of the "A work in progress" and show you the photo's from the fittings.

The first cloth is an exclusive London Lounge cloth called LLTW20 which is a beautiful blue Shetland tweed with a brown window pane, designed by Michael Alden, the creator of The London Lounge.

The style of this sports jacket is:

Single Breasted
3 roll 2 1/2
Side Vents
Flaps
Notch Lapel
2 Front Cuts

The second cloth is a 13oz brown triple check from J&J Minnis. The pattern number is 7704

The style of this sports jacket is pretty much the same as the London Lounge jacket but here are the details below:

Single Breasted
3 roll 2
Side Vents
Flaps
Notch Lapel
2 Front Cuts

As mentioned before we will be sure to put up the fitting photo's in a couple of weeks and will follow on with the rest of the process on these two, as well as looking at some other Steed creations throughout 2012.

Best,

Matthew DeBoise

Steed Bespoke Tailors

www.steed.co.uk

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Steed-Bespoke-Tailors/33957779948

Get Well Soon!

It's with regret to announce that my brother Jon DeBoise of Castle Tailors will be unable to travel to the USA as expected due to illness. However he is on the mend and we all wish him a speedy recovery.

For those of you who were hoping to see him on this trip, most of whom I know already, I will be more than happy to meet with you and to take orders on his behalf. 

Also those who have fittings ready I shall also take care of those appointments for Jon, apart from in Nashville where Roger Talbot of Hilditch & Key will be able to accommodate you.

Steed Tailors - October 2011 - USA Itinarary

Steed Tailors - October 2011 - USA Itinarary

Steed are pleased to announce that Edwin DeBoise will be returning to the United States in October 2011.

Edwin will be travelling with his older brother Jon DeBoise of Castle Tailors & Rodger Talbot of Hilditch & Key.

Please note the change of hotels in DC, New York City and Boston for this trip only. .
If you wish to contact Edwin during the trip, you can call on Steed's American Cell Phone Number below:

617 794 0039

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                                                                                      New York

Wednesday, 12th October till Friday, 14th October

The Barclay Intercontinental Hotel

Suite 1241

111 East 48th Street
New York

NY 10017

212 906 1587 

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Chicago 

Sunday, 16th October & Monday, 17th October 

The Drake Hotel

140 East Walton Pl

Chicago

                                                                                 312 787 2200

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

                                                      

Washington DC 

Wednesday, 19th October  & Thursday, 20th October till Noon

Embassy Suites 

(Opposite Marriott Hotel)

1250 22nd Street NW

Washington

DC 20037

                                                                                    202 857 3388

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Boston

Friday, 21st October & Saturday, 22nd October till Noon

The Langham

250 Franklin Street

Boston

MA 02110

                                                                                  617 451 1900

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

We look forward to meeting customers, old & new alike and as always we will be offering both my Semi-Bespoke (MTM)& Bespoke service. 

..

We carry a wide selection of cloths but if anyone has any particular requestes for a certain bunch, please don't hesitate to ask. 

Obviously the days between cities we will be traveling. However, there maybe an opportunity to see customers, late afternoon, early evening of those days. 

If you’d like to make an appointment, we would appreciate it if you could contact us prior to the trip, so that we can organise our day to accommodate everyone. 

You can also contact us on our American Cell Phone number below:

617  794 0039

Best regards, 

Edwin & Matthew DeBoise 

Steed Bespoke Tailors 

+44 (0) 20  7287  7227 

www.steed.co.uk/ 

www.steeds-view.blogspot.com/ 

Steed Expands to China

.
Its an honour for Steed to announce that we have been invited out to Beijing, China to take part in the China International First (Beijing) Private Custom Made Products Exhibition, in September of this year. Where we will be showcasing our Savile Row Bespoke Tailoring Services to the East-Asian market.

This exhibition has invited luxury custom-made brands from countries all over the world, such as Great Britain, France, Italy, Germany, Switzerland, The United States, Japan and China.

These brands include prestigious names such as Alfred Dunhill, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Aston Martin, Hermes, George Cleverley, Patek Philippe and of course Steed.

This will be Steeds first foray into China as we look to start a new chapter by introducing the unique world and experience of Savile Row to the Chinese people.

Steed have been given this great opportunity as a result of an article that Matthew wrote last October and was published in the November edition of TIDE Magazine, which is the largest fashion magazine in China. We were given a 10 page spread of which four were in English and six in Chinese.

When we were first approached to do the article, we were asked to write it as more of a journal in which it could be used to tell the story of Savile Row and the history of Steed and my own personal life growing up on Savile Row and following the family traditions in Bespoke Tailoring.

The main purpose of the article was to educate the reader about the history and traditions of Savile Row Bespoke Tailoring and the differences of it compared to the modern day fashion trends of designer brands and their off the rack services.

Accompanying myself and Matthew on the trip is our friend and new China Marketing Director Bin Gao who has been instrumental in the setting up of this exiting trip to China.

We would also like to thank Xuewen Cao the CEO of TIDE Magazine and General Manager of the sponsor of the event Zhong Huang Culture, for inviting us to take part in such a prestigious event.

Steed Tailors - July 2011 - USA Itinarary

Steed are pleased to announce that Edwin & Matthew DeBoise will be returning to the United States in July.

If you wish to contact us during our trip, you can call us on our American Cell Phone Number below:

617 794 0039

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Chicago 

Monday, 18th July

The Drake Hotel

140 East Walton Pl

312 787 2200

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

                                                      

Washington DC 

Wednesday, 20th July

The Hay-Adams Hotel

Sixteenth & H Streets

N.W. Washington

202 638 6600

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New York

Friday, 22nd July & Saturday, 23rd July

The Kimberly Hotel 

145 east 50th Street

212 755 0400

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Boston

Monday, 25th July & Tuesday, 26th July, till noon

The Eliot Hotel 

370 Commonwealth Ave

617 267 1607

..

We look forward to meeting customers, old & new alike and as always we will be offering both my Semi-Bespoke (MTM)& Bespoke service. 

We carry a wide selection of cloths but if anyone has any particular requestes for a certain bunch, please don't hesitate to ask. 

Obviously the days between cities we will be traveling. However, there maybe an opportunity to see customers, late afternoon, early evening of those days. 

If you’d like to make an appointment, we would appreciate it if you could contact us prior to the trip, so that we can organise our day to accommodate everyone. 

You can also contact us on our American Cell Phone number below:

617 794 0039

Best regards, 

Edwin & Matthew DeBoise 

Steed Bespoke Tailors 

+44 (0) 20  7287  7227 

www.steed.co.uk/ 

www.steeds-view.blogspot.com/